This is my last blog from Prague, I'm leaving early tomorrow morning for a long day (it's an extra six hours long). I'll keep it short (so I can pack). The highlight yesterday was visiting the oldest synagogue in Europe. It was the first Rabbi (Lowe, I think was his name) at this synagogue that was supposed to have created the Gollum and hid it in its rafters.
I do have to throw in a dinner anecdote. I asked the hotel concierge to recommend a restaurant last night. "A Czech restaurant?", she asked, which means one that serves authentic Czech fare (like not a Chinese restaurant or a KFC, which are abundant). So off Ben and I went with one of his friends from NYU for a ten minute walk or so to the place. To our horror, we found ourselves in a fake Prague castle or dungeon or some 12th C. thematic parlor. We vacated before finding ourselves pilloried, and made for one of the ubiquitous corner cafe (i.e. pub) restaurants across the street for a friendly and good meal in an actual authentic Czech place. Just some attention to the food and simple low lighting is all I ask. If the restaurant happens to be in an interesting place, fine. No artificial thematic experiences, p-l-e-a-s-e.
2 comments:
I hate to show my ignorance but what's the Gollum?
Melanie, here is the story of the Gulem. It's essentially the original Frankenstein myth. Rabbi Lowe is not a myth, he was the first Rabbi of this synagogue. His seat remains empty out of respect. By the way, this synagogue is still in use.
"The Jews of Prague were forever being accused of murdering Christian children for their blood in order to make matzos for Pesach. Rabbi Lowe could not stand the suffering of his people anymore and his extreme anxiety led him to ask G-d for otherworldly advice. He asked his question in his dream and a vision appeared to him, which consisted of the first 10 letters of the sacred Hebrew language. Rabbi Lowe was invited to take part in the delights of the celestial powers. His brief was to create a golem out of clay that would protect the Jews. He was exposed to a few of the Hebrew letters which allowed him to create a being with no soul, a being that would obey orders, stay awake all night and be able to see the souls of the murder victims which would hover above the body for 3 days.
Rabbi Lowe and 2 of his followers purified themselves by fasting, studying and praying with passionate enthusiasm. Then at the most supernatural time of night, the 3 men, in their religious attire went deep into the forest and began their mystical rhapsody. Then from a lump of clay appeared a bulky, yet insubstantial creature in the shape of a human being. This floating being looked as if he half belonged in heaven and the other half belonged on earth. The golem showed no fear and no pity for the enemies. He sniffed out all the evil and brought the executors to justice. He could not converse with anyone and when he was not defending the Jewish people, he would hide in the dark in the rabbinical court until he was next needed.
When the time came that the golem was no longer needed the Rabbi and his two friends met once again. They led the golem up to the attic of the synagogue and like the angels, recited names from above. The golem knew what was taking place but because of his complete trust in the Rabbi, he did not object. To this day, no one is allowed to go into the attic of the Altneu-shull lest the golem appears from under the tallis".
Post a Comment